Mudbugs.... They're what's for dinner

This edition of the infrequent Wannabe Foodie includes mudbugs, the proper way to eat these wonderful creatures, a barbeque dish that pushes the limits of ‘barbeque’, and what may be the coolest bar in US.

The WF and the Red in the Big Easy. The Red and I recently celebrated a big wedding anniversary in New Orleans.  Yes, the Big Easy has a definite seedy underbelly, and yes there are many areas where tourists simply shouldn’t wander.  It’s one of those cities where if you wander somewhere and wonder if you should be there, the answer is probably no. 

It is also home to some of the country’s best restaurants.  We ate at Commander’s Palace, Cochon, and Luke.  Each is in its own right a fabulous restaurant and in the case of Commander’s Palace, one of those restaurants that should be on your restaurant bucket list.  We had some fabulous food (mmm..   soft shell crab…) at Commander’s, but it’s such a classy place that even I, the WF and food porn connossieur, just didn’t feel right taking photos. 

The Big Easy is also the home of what I consider to be the only truly American cuisines – Cajun and Creole.  I love everything about each of these cuisines, but I particularly like their use of the seafood I love – shellfish, bi-valves (oysters and clams), and white fish like catfish.

Rather than give restaurant reviews, I’ll just describe a couple of my favorite dishes and places in the Big Easy.

Mudbugs. The seafood you’ve probably neglected.  Yes.  I’m talking about crawfish, or if you grew up in Mississippi like I did, crawdads.  They’ve lovingly also called mudbugs because, well, they live in the mud in the swamps.  And eat stuff off the bottom.  So……

They look like small lobsters and frankly the tail meat tastes like lobster, though sweeter if they’re fresh. 

The proper way to prepare them is to boil them live in a spicey boil, often along with corn or potatoes.  Not quite a low country boil, but similar.  For the connossieur, the correct way to eat them is the pull them apart where the tail meets the head, suck the fatty and spicey goodness out of the head, and pop the tail out.  Repeat as necessary.

You read that correctly.  You suck the stuff out of the head, and it’s good.  Like mana from heaven good.  It’s rich and loaded with the flavor of the boil.  Awesome.  The Red even jumped in like a native. 

As you can see, you throw the carcasses into the tray at the bottom.

Too much for you?  Buy the tail meats in the frozen foods section, and give me your foodie/man/woman card.  You clearly have no use for it. 

Seriously.  These bugs are awesome. 

“Barbecue” Shrimp.  In case you don’t know, this dish is a cherished staple of New Orleans cuisine. 

Here’s the thing.  It’s not cooked on a barbeque or a smoker and, frankly, it bears no resemblance to anything barbecue.  I have no idea why it’s called barbecue and I’ve asked around.  I’ve yet to get a coherent or understandable answer.

Here’s what I do know about this dish:  It’s frickin’ awesome, though nothing about it resembles “healthy,” “lowfat,” or even “advisable to eat on a regular basis.”

It’s a simple dish – a mess ‘o head on big ass prawns,  a half cup or more of various dry spices, and about a ½ pound of butter.  The prawns  are really just poached in the buttery, spicey goodness.  Check ‘em out:  

Like eating mudbugs, this dish is not for the feint of heart.  You wear a bib (I’d prefer a trash bag) and you dig your bare hands into the pot to pull out the prawns.  And then you rip them apart (don’t forget to suck the goodness out of the prawn’s head), whilst sending showers of butter everywhere and slowly prying the wonderful tail meat out. 

Seriously.  This makes real barbeque look like a downright neat and tidy meal.  There is truly no way to eat this dish in any way which resembles neat, tidy, or generally socially acceptable.

But it is fabulous.  The spicy butter brings out the natural sweetness of the prawns, while infusing them with the spicey goodness.  It’s also served with a loaf of bread for dipping, just in case you didn’t’ get enough butter.  And I didn’t.

Truly one of my favorite dishes.  I’ve salivating while writing this….

The Sazerac - The Coolest Bar in the US.  The Red and I were fortunate enough to stay at the Roosevelt while in New Orleans.  The Roosevelt is a Waldorf Astoria and one of those old grand dame hotels that are scattered across the U.S.  If you like old school luxury, this is your place.   I won’t ever stay anywhere else in the Big Easy.

Perhaps more importantly, it’s the home of the Sazerac Bar.  You can guess what their signature dish is – the Sazerac, and it's made like god intended it, with Sazerac Rye.  And they’re doing the Lord’s work when they’re making it. 

However, the cocktails and their awesomeness aren't necessarily the best part of this bar.  It's the ambience and decor.  Check out the photos. It’s old and cover in wood paneling.  Actually, the whole bar is made from one large African tree that was imported in the early 1900s.  

It’s also got 4 hand painted murals on the wall, which apparently depict the growing of the ingredients for the sazerac.  Check ‘em out. 

If you don’t like this bar, I can’t help you.  I can’t wait to go back.  

New Orleans is truly one of the best food cities in the country.

Happy cooking.

WF